AOCE and AOCM

Posted on | June 15, 2005

Yesterday evening I went to my first trade association meeting. The AOC association «Côtes de Roussillon» was getting together in order to validate the project of re-writing the rules of the Appellation within the framework of the big reform launched by Monsieur Renè Renou. I don’t know if one day we will have these famous AOCE, these AOC «Excellence», which, we are assured, are going to save the system, but from what I know since yesterday evening, if the rules of Côtes du Roussillon are confirmed in the way proposed we will have seen the birth of a magnificent AOCM. «M» for …Mediocre

One must see it to believe it.  Let me demonstrate my point: when I was proposing that the rules should forbid all recourse to «chaptalisation», so as to give a strong signal towards a promise of quality.. «Monsieur» one doesn’t «chaptalise», «Monsier« one «enriches with natural grape must, lightly concentrated». And what’s more it is «indispensable» to the «quality» of our our wines which, often, in Roussillon, «do not attain the minimum 11° required by the Appellation» (this is still the most sun-soaked region of France, just in case you didn’t realise it) where a good wine from here «must make it to 13°» often too «difficult» to attain. Difficult when one harvests on 10 September, in a hurry to go hunting. Or when the vines are stuffed with leaf rolling moths and one harvests them catastrophically, without worrying about the quality.

A few minutes later, another mounts the battlements to explain in his turn that authorisation of «irrigation» is «indispensable» for the «quality» of the wines of Roussillon. In fact, according to him, it is «difficult» here to have balanced «rosès», because the wines in our part of France would be naturally too…. alcoholic. Grunting of satisfaction in the hall. I waited in silence to see if anyone would react: maybe, are the wines of Roussillon too alcoholic or not enough? We ought to know. Nobody moves. Laugh? Cry? I hesitate.  That’s it, I know that if one wants to have a share in Listel’s market, one must launch oneself into rosè. I’m the only one who doesn’t understand AOC.

Afterwards, I naively suggest the neccessity for a new more rigorous exam, on the delimitation of the zone. The air beings to hum with open hostility and the tone mounts. Nevertheless, I explain that at the creation of the AOC, the zone was copied from that of the natural sweet wines, during their sacrosanct period, and that certain low-life, only capable of producing table wines destined for «mutage» are not capable of producing Côte du Roussillon worthy of its name. Clamour in the hall. The tone mounts. The atmosphere is electric.

My friend Etienne Montes courageously mounts to the battlements in an attempt to defend Carignan which is the grape to knock: a new limitation of 40% of the grape variety instead of 60% at the moment. I’m no fanatic of this grape, but I understand that one may want it and one may be able to make a good wine from it thus we keep some of the most beautiful and the best massales selections. «Impossible, Carignan, it’s out of fashion» someone explains to me. The «technicians» have confirmed it (these «technicians» have never sold a botle of wine in their lives). Another states that «in competitions, it is wines dominated by Syrah that sweep the medals So…» How can one discuss, or explain, or communicate with people who never drink wine outside the refreshment bar at the co-op cellar and are are NEVER confronted with the market? That same morning, two youngsters from Priorat came to taste at the domaine, ultra-proud of their Carignan-Grenache destined for export…«Truth beyond the Pyrenèes, mistake this side» [« Vèritè au-delà des Pyrènèes, erreur en deçà » - Pascal]  here is a famous phrase I would never have imagined would be used in this way… Thus forward to the 2000 new hectares planted with hugely subvented Syrah clone B or C which are hyperproductive, on 110 or, worse, on SO4. What wines will they make in 10 years time with these vines? No one knows, nobody cares, about vegetal matter, because other questions are more urgent: «will the State become involved?» Understood, we will have more aid, subventions, exonerations…

Some good things all the same in the future «new virtual decrees» such as the «rendement agronomique» which will appear at 9300kg/ha finally effecting real parcel control. Also positive, the authorisation (finally!) of Grenache Gris in the Côtes du Rousillon Blanc, AOC which becomes more «liberal» all whilst reducing.. muscat in authorised grapes (Sic). I add a real reform on the label, positive I think, for without doubt more efficient and which makes the  merchant more responsible. While waiting, the label will only be valid for one year, and the wines must be represented each year if they are not yet sold or bottled. Finally, let’s welcome the entrance of the principle  «l’engagement parcellaire» which will prevent us from being mocked by the whole world (how to control a parcel in a mixed zone if one doesn’t know to what wine it is destined?)

OK, anyhow, one doesn’t vote. Here, it’s not «one man, one voice» but rather «the more hectolitres I produce, the more voting rights I have». The co-operatives represent 65% of the Appellation, there are but two or three independent wine-growers who scarecly dare to speak, a harsh voice speaks up: «We’re not going to make our lives a pain just for one particular producer!» It’s true, it’s late, anyhow the bets are placed; and anyway it’s drinks time… Do the rounds, there’s nothing else to do. In the car, returning home, I am beset by contradictory feelings: «disgust». «hopelessness», «rebellion», «resignation». In the evening I settle on «dejection».

Hervè Bizeul

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