Bordeaux 2007

Posted on | November 15, 2007

Sections of the press have already written off the 2007 vintage in Bordeaux — even as early as August 2007.

The assessment, led in the US, of classifying vintages as either terrific or not worthy of consideration is largely based on erroneous speculation and, it appears, they have already trounced 2007 — a wine that is currently fermenting and about to undertake its malo-lactic conversion. The pronouncements deny the existence of any middle ground or even that some domains may succeed where others fail.

Who does it serve? Certainly not the consumer and it can create general hardship amongst the luckless vignerons who, faced with whatever nature throws at them, may feel their endeavours in the vineyard are not worth the trouble, if there is no public to appreciate their wine.

I have just returned from Bordeaux where I was able to taste some wines out of the barrel from a few producers, although the purpose of my trip was not to forecast a wine we will have the opportunity to taste in the spring of 2008. I only mention it in this particular context for those who favour extrapolation from climatic data. Far from being disappointed, I came away feeling that there will be some wonderful wine produced from this vintage from producers who could master the difficulties. Indeed, it seems that perhaps in the Graves and Sauternes it will be a truly great year to rival any in recent memory.

The pendulum years in Bordeaux — as one might describe the press reaction to wines in the new millenium — suggests that some writers might prefer homogeneous vintages – each year producing the same quality of maturity, tannins, acidity, sugar and thus tastes, bouquets, aromas and textures. It is worth remembering that Michael Schumacher rendered almost boring the world’s most glamorous sport of Grand Prix racing by doing just that – providing a consistent outcome.

Vive la différence!

Fabian Cobb

Comments